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Hot Water Problems: No Heat, Not Enough, Or Something Smells Off

Written & reviewed by our Gas Safe registered engineers  ·  Last updated 22 July 2026

Hot water faults are their own category, separate from central heating — a combi with no hot water can still be heating the radiators perfectly fine, and vice versa. These guides cover hot water specifically: none at all, water that’s warm but never properly hot, water that runs out quickly, and the less obvious symptoms like smell or discolouration that point to the cylinder rather than the boiler.

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Quick answer: on a combi boiler, hot water problems are usually the diverter valve or a faulty sensor. On a system with a cylinder, they’re more often the cylinder thermostat, immersion heater, or the coil inside the cylinder itself. Which type you have changes where to look first.

Diagnosis

Diagnosing by symptom

SymptomLikely cause
No hot water at allDiverter valve fault (combi) or immersion/thermostat fault (cylinder)
Hot water but never properly hotThermostat set too low, or a failing heat exchanger/coil
Runs hot then suddenly turns coldUndersized combi struggling with demand, or a cylinder running out of stored hot water
Takes a long time to run hotNormal for long pipe runs, but worth checking if it's got noticeably worse
Discoloured or smelly waterUsually cylinder-related — sediment or bacterial growth in the tank
Combi vs Cylinder

Different systems fail in different places

Combi boiler faults

Usually the diverter valve (which switches the boiler between heating and hot water mode), a faulty flow sensor, or limescale restricting the heat exchanger in hard water areas.

Cylinder system faults

Usually the cylinder thermostat, a failed immersion heater element, or the internal coil scaling up over time and losing its ability to transfer heat efficiently.

Safety Information

Cylinder temperature and legionella

If you have a hot water cylinder, its thermostat should be kept at 60°C. This isn’t just about comfort — it’s a genuine safety matter. Legionella bacteria can grow in stored water kept consistently below around 50°C, and 60°C storage is the standard way of controlling that risk in a domestic cylinder. If your cylinder has been turned down to save energy, or hot water has felt noticeably cooler than it used to, have the thermostat checked rather than assuming it’s just an efficiency setting.

What Repairs Typically Cost

Typical hot water repair costs

Diverter valve replacementCombi boiler£120–£220
Cylinder thermostat replacementCylinder system£80–£150
Immersion heater element replacementCylinder system£100–£180
Cylinder replacementBy size and type, inc. fitting£400–£900

Typical North London guide prices — you’ll always get an upfront quote before any work starts.

FAQs

Hot water — your questions answered

Usually a harmless reaction between the magnesium anode in your cylinder and sulphate bacteria in the water, more noticeable after the cylinder’s sat unused. Running the hot tap for a few minutes often clears it; if it persists, worth having the anode checked.

Not usually dangerous for washing, but it’s a sign of sediment or corrosion inside the cylinder that’s worth investigating, especially if it doesn’t clear after running the tap for a minute or two.

This often points to a failing diverter valve not holding position properly, or in some cases a flow sensor issue causing the boiler to briefly lose its reading on how much water is passing through.

Yes — a combi heats water on demand at a fixed maximum rate, so running two hot outlets at once splits that capacity between them, meaning both run noticeably cooler than either would alone.

Normal to some extent on long pipe runs, since the water sitting in the pipe has to be pushed through and cooled water cleared first. If it’s got noticeably worse recently, that’s more likely a pressure or flow issue worth checking.

It should be set to 60°C for both comfort and legionella safety. If you’re not sure what it’s currently set to, this is worth checking at your next service rather than guessing.

Yes — North London’s hard water accelerates limescale build-up inside heat exchangers and cylinder coils, one of the more common causes of gradually weakening hot water performance over several years.

On a cylinder system, this points to the cylinder not having fully reheated between uses, often because the reheat schedule or immersion backup isn’t keeping pace with household demand.

Possibly — if you’re consistently running out of hot water during busy periods like mornings, an undersized cylinder for the household’s current size is a common and fixable cause worth discussing with an engineer.

In a hard water area like North London, a softener can meaningfully slow limescale build-up inside heat exchangers, cylinder coils and immersion elements, which may extend their working life. It’s a genuine investment rather than a quick fix, and won’t reverse existing scale — more relevant for protecting a newer system than solving an existing fault.

Showers generally use less hot water per use than a bath, so switching can ease demand on a system struggling to keep up, particularly a smaller combi or undersized cylinder. It won’t fix an underlying fault, but for a system that’s simply borderline for the household’s needs, it can meaningfully reduce how often you notice its limits.

No hot water, or not enough?

We diagnose combi and cylinder systems alike — same-day appointments available, subject to availability. Gas Safe registered, North London, upfront pricing.

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